
\y The American Silk 
burnal Company 
9 Union Square, West, 
rewYork V 1905 



A-Glossary-o/" 
SILK TERMS 




Issued by The American Silk 
Journal Company, ig Union 
Square^ West, New York City 



UBRARYof OONQRESS 
Two Copies rteuMVM 

JUL 29 1905 

ifOpyrient tiiuy 

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^ AXc. Not 
/ 2 a W2_— 
COPY B. 



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Copyright, 1905, by the 
American Silk Journal Co. 



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(fd 



Press of the Grolier Craft 

129-133 W. 20th Street 

New York 




GLOSSARY • of • SILR • TERMS 




E PRESENT a carefully com- 
piled and, we believe, very 
complete and reliable Glossary 
of the many distinctive terms 
employed in the silk trade, to 
date, as applied to weaves, 
styles, figure and color effects, 
also trade names, etc., with 
brief description and derivation of same, for con- 
venient use by manufacturers, handlers and con- 
sumers of silk goods, foreign and domestic. 

This modest booklet, which has been brought to 
the notice of a number of acknowledged experts, for 
full and free criticism, and revision, before publication, 
cannot fail to prove of value for handy reference in 
the mill, the commission house and in wholesale and 
retail silk departments everywhere. In this belief we 
send it forth upon its mission to the silk manufacturers 
and trade, 

[3] 



A jour — Openwork effect. 

Abis Messaline Tajfetas — Trade name for a high- 
grade taffetas with messaline finish. The name " Abis " 
of no special or definite significance. 

Antique — Applied to certain fabrics in imitation 
of the silk stuffs of former centuries ; instance, satin 
antiques, moire antiques, etc. 

Armorclad — Trade name for a double- warp taffe- 
tas of great strength and wear. 

Armitre — A twilled weave showing a ribbed sur- 
face. 

ArmiLre-laine — A heavy ribbed or corded silk, 
wool-filled. 

Ayas — A soft Japanese twill. A trade name. 

Bagdad — Trade name for an Oriental novelty of 
recent origin. 

j5(3:rr^'— Striped laterally, in same direction as the 
filling, similar to travers. Showing transverse bars, 
as the " barred owl." 

Bayadhe — Showing straight or undulating cross 
stripes — usually in alternated and brilliant colors — 
with startling and bizarre effect. Name derived from 
Bayadere (or " Bajadere") dancing girls of the under- 
world in India, dedicated from their birth to the life ; 
the striped garment being supplemented with filmy 
scarf or shawl, jeweled trousers, bangles, gold sequins, 
anklets, etc. 

Bayadkre Moire- — Same as above, with watered 
effect added. 

[4] 



Bengaline — A plain, round-corded weave, more or 
less heavy, of the poplin family. May be of silk warp 
and wool or cotton filling or of all silk, which latter 
would be called Bengaline de Soie. Name derived 
from Bengal, India, famous for its production of 
various rich and peculiar stuffs of silk, wool and cotton. 

^^«<;//— French for buckled. A fabric with sur- 
face showing lock-of-hair effect. 

Botnllomie—Hdivmg shirred or gathered effect. 

Bojirette — Showing rough threads appearing in 
lines, straight or broken. 

Brilliant — Indicating a finish of great lustre. 
May be applied to any fabric. 

Brocade — From the Spanish brocado, meaning 
brocaded or broche ; from the Latin brocare, to prick, 
to figure. A heavy-weight silk with broche (raised) 
figures of flowers, foliage or other ; in some instances 
with gold and silver threads interwoven. Any fabric 
woven in jacquard effect. 

Brocatelle — A sort of damask, the principal figures 
having a raised surface. 

Broche- — A loom-embroidered fabric, with figures 
swiveled in. Woven with a figure. 

^r<?<^<?^Embroidered . 

BriisJwff Taffetas — Trade name for a pure dye 
black taffetas of recent production. 

Bulldog Taffetas — A registered modern trade 
name for an exceedingly strong taffetas, claimed to be 
non-tearable. 

[5] 



Biirlingham — Trade name for a coarse fabric of 
Oriental character. Sacking. 

Burmah — A trade name for a rough weave of the 
hornespun order. 

Burmali — Registered trade name for a peculiar 
weave of Oriental character of uneven surface and ex- 
tremely soft finish. 

CacJiemire — (French for Cashmere or Kashmir). 
A style showing palms and other Persian and Indian 
patterns in dark, rich Oriental colorings. Akin to 
Persian effects. Name derived from Cashmere, India, 
noted for Cashmere shawls and rich and beautiful 
fabrics made from hair of the native goat. 

Calfskin silk — Trade name. An exquisitely soft 
weave, with pattern, warp-printed, in marvelous imita- 
tion of the outer skin of the calf, showing all the mark- 
ings in color and shadings — brown, fawn, etc., shading 
to pure white. A recent production. 

Cannele — Also known as "repp," related to 
taffetas weaves, and appearing mainly in the form of 
stripes, in combination with some other patterns. 

Caiiille — A jointed effect, with stripes broken at 
intervals by knots or small squares, resembling some- 
what the joints in cane or bamboo. 

Caireau — A square check. 

Chameleon — Three-toned glace effect. From 
chameleon, a lizard-like reptile of constantly changing 
color. 

Changeant — An effect produced by weaving two 
colors together in a plain fabric. 
■ [6] 



Chi;^on — The merest rag of silk tissue — the most 
filmy and softest of silk material woven. From ^Uhijfe " 
(French), a rag ; flimsy cloth. 

CJiiffonette — The flimsiest and most "bodiless " of 
all the chiffon family. 

Chijfoji-Tajfetas — An exceedingly thin, soft, light- 
weight taffeta. The same will apply to all other 
weaves with the chiffon prefix. 

Chiffon- Velours — The lightest and softest velours 
known, combining somewhat the nature of both 
weaves named. 

Chine— A warp-printed effect. Blurred, soft, 
indistinct. 

Coguille — Fluted or scalloped, like a shell, from 
which the term is derived. 

Crepe — French for crape. A puckered or 
crinkled fabric. 

Crepe de Chine — An exquisitely soft and drapy 
form of crepe, plain, figured or printed. 

Crepela — A small, crepe-like effect. 

Crepe lisse — A plain fabric with crepy " hand," 
extremely diaphanous and very like the lightest 
mousseline. 

Croise—K velvet weave in which the threads 
cross each other at the back, forming a kind of twill. 
From croise, French for crossed. 

Crystals, crystallines, etc, — Corded, usually wool- 
filled fabrics, somewhat akin to Bengalines. 

Damask — Named from the city of Damascus, 
famed in the middle ages for its wonderful silk fabrics. 
[7] 



A fabric with flat figures formed by contrast between 
warp and filling surfaces, i. e., satin figures (formed by 
the filling) on satin or twill or taffetas ground 
(formed by the warp). 

Damasse — With damask effects introduced. 

Damier — From the French. A check pattern. 
Equivalent to checkerboard. 

Deux tones — Two tones. 

Z>r<«/— Cloth. 

Dmp d'Or — " Cloth of Gold." A trade name for 
a fabric woven in the gum, of classic Italian (warp) 
and tussah ((iUing), and boiled off to the color of pale 
gold. A recent production. 

Di'ap de Lyons — A rich, plain French silk made 
on Lyons looms. 

Drap de sole — A somewhat heavy corded weave. 
Literally silk cloth. 

Dmp-satin — A wool material with satin-like 
finish. 

Dresden — A chine effect, somewhat in imitation 
of the figures and colorings seen in the famous decor- 
ated porcelain made in Dresden, Saxony. 

Diichesse— K superior quality of satin, of good 
body and high lustre. 

Ecossais-Genre — From ecossais, French for Scotch, 
and genre — a style of figure and color in tissue illus- 
trating every-day life, manners and customs, the same 
as in painting and other arts. 

Ecru — Raw, unbleached silk in its natural color. 
From critdus, Latin for raw. 
[8] 



En CaiTeait — A square pattern. 

Epingle^K ribbed fabric in vast variety, show- 
ing moderately large and smaller ribs alternating — in 
plain, in figures and in colors. 

Faconnes — French for fancy weaves. 

Faille — A soft, drapy weave of the grosgrain 
order, with very fine ribs. Heavier than foulard and 
without gloss. 

Faille Frangaise — A faille made on French looms. 

Faille Marquise — Trade name. A cloth twenty- 
one inches wide, Lyons made, with flat cord and 
messaline finish. 

Failletine — A light and extremely soft weave of 
the faille order. 

Failletine Moire- — A light faille in moire effect. 
Filling the cross threads in a woven fabric. 

Flettr de sole— " Flower of silk." Face of satin de 
Lyons twill, with a backing interlaced in what is 
known as the twelve-shaft satin principle. 

Fleiir de Velours — Flower of velours. A fine and 
very superior grade of velours. 

Florentine — A gauze weave, much employed in 
making artificial flowers, and for millinery purposes 
generally. 

Folies Bergeres — Trade name for a new washable 
silk. From the " Folies Bergeres," a noted amuse- 
ment resort in Paris. 

Foulard — A two-and-two-thread weave, forming 
a soft, fine, lavable silk. Originally imported from 
India, now made in other countries. 
[9] 



Foundation weaves — There are but three— plain, 
twill and satin. All others are variations of these. 

Foiir-In-One — Trade name for a closely woven Jap- 
anese fabric, claimed to be spot and perspiration-proof, 
and also an absolutely fast black. 

Gaitffre — From "gauffrer," to figure cloth or 
velvet ; to honeycomb or waffle. An effect produced 
by pressure or gauffrage in calendering, by which the 
surface of almost any fabric, but especially the lighter 
weaves, can be pressed into forms of relief. Satins, 
for instance, may be made to imitate moire. Fluted 
and accordion-pleated effects are obtained in like 
manner. 

Gauze — French, gaze; a very fine and peculiar 
weave of the bunting order. A thin zwile, or veiling. 

Glace^h. lustrous effect imparted by weaving 
two tones, and a special finish. From glacial, having 
the sheen of glacier ice. 

Grandmother Silk — Registered trade name for a 
fine, pure dye silk, in black and colors, of superior 
weave and finish. A renaissance of the rich and 
durable silk of the olden time. 

Granite — A sort of armure effect. 

Granite soie — A rich and elegant form of faconne ; 
in color a whitish gray, as seen in the granite rock. 

Grenadine — An open-work, gauze-like fabric of 
silk or wool. Extremely thin and transparent. The 
silk fabric is known as gi'enadine de soie. 

Gros de Tours — Resembling taffetas, the differ- 

[10] 



ence being that, instead of one, two or more picks are 
inserted in the same shed, forming a fine ribbed sur- 
face. A sublimated grosgrain. 

Grosgrain — From gros (coarse or large) and 
grain (kernel). A ribbed fabric with heavy thread 
running crosswise. Classed with the epingles. Gros 
de London, Gros de Naples, Gros de Columbia, Gros 
de Paris, and all the other numerous "Gros "are of 
the same general character. 

Habutai — A soft, washable Japanese silk. 

Habutai de Suisse — Trade name for a pure dye 
spot-proof silk of the Habutai order, finished with 
little lustre. 

Hammered Silk — A recently produced novelty, 
showing effect as of hammered metal — copper, brass 
or other — imparted in the weave by use of the jac- 
quard. Trade name for a new neckwear fabric. 

Harlequin Checks — A plaid effect in three or 
more distinct colors. After the party-colored dress 
of a buffoon, or harlequin. 

Heather Silk — Trade name for a rough-finished, 
pure dye fabric of exquisite softness, seen in a great 
variety of artistic color effects, resulting from the 
union of two contrasting colors or shades in both warp 
and weft. An imitation in silk of the heather effects 
seen in Scotch woolens. 

Homespun — A silk weave in imitation of Scotch 
or Irish woolens. 

Imprime—FrQr\c)\ for printed. 

[II] 



Imprime Radieiise — A brightly-lustred article, 
surface-printed. A trade name. 

hidescent — Rainbow and shot color effect, show- 
ing prismatic hues and play of color. 

Jacqiiard Effects — Figures produced by the 
mechanism invented by Jean Marie Jacquard, a French 
genius of the time of the first Napoleon. 

fardiniere — French for flower pot. Garden effect, 
in which many colors are employed to form patterns of 
buds, fruit, flowers, foliage, etc. 

Jasper — Black warp with white filling, or white 
warp with black filling, forming a gray. Commer- 
cially known as jasper or gun-metal shade. 

Khedive — Trade name for a fabric of Oriental 
character. 

Lance — French for " thrown." Showing tiny 
dots or specks ; also fine pin point or pettits pois ef- 
fects, as if the figures were thrown on the ground. 

Lansdoime — A mixed fabric in fine twill, with silk 
face and worsted back. An exclusive novelty. 

La Vague — A moire effect formed by fine satin 
lines on a Bengaline ground. A trade name of recent 
adoption. 

Lc Jungle — Trade name for a heavy, coarse weave 
showing glimpses of yarn of contrasting colors, with 
Oriental suggestions. 

Liberty — A name first applied by Liberty & Co., 
of London and Paris, converters — by printing, dyeing 
and finishing — of various silk goods direct from the 

[12] 



loom, to a wide range of fabrics handled by them 
Later, in this country, the name was adopted by the 
Liberty Silk Co., and applied, under trade-mark, to a 
variety of their exclusive productions — as Liberty 
Satin, Liberty Crepe, Liberty Taffetas, Liberty Peau 
de Sole, Liberty Brilliant and other, mainly or exclu- 
sively piece-dyed fabrics. Name now generally ap- 
plied to a wide range of fabrics throughout the trade. 

Lisse — From lissom — supple, flexible. A sort of 
chiffon of the gauze order with crepe twist. Much 
used for ruchings and kindred purposes. 

Louisine — A fine-grained, light-weight, soft-fin- 
ished silk in basket weave (invisible to the eye) ; 
adapted especially for traveling gowns. 

Louisine Empire — Trade name for a superior 
quality of above weave. 

Louis XIV, Louis XV, Re'gence, Directoire, Em- 
pire, etc. — Terms employed to designate the styles 
that prevailed in certain periods of the political his- 
tory of France, by attaching the name of the ruler or 
form of government then existing. 

Luxor — A weave of the satin family, with a high 
finish, but less lustrous than a satin duchesse. A 
sumptuous fabric, de luxe, of a reversible order — both 
sides alike. 

Marcelline — -A light, thin, diaphanous fabric, 
used largely for millinery and other linings. 

Matelasse- — A weave showing a quilted effect, 
[13] ^ 



though on a very diminutive scale. From the French 
mat el as ; Anglice, quilt. 

Matte — A faint, dull shade. From mate or Para- 
guay tea, otherwise known as the calabash herb, which 
is of a peculiar grayish-green color. 

Maxine Taffetas — A fine woven and exquisitely 
soft taffetas, registered name, by permission from 
Maxine Elliott, the popular actress. 

Melange — Mixed. Applied to fabrics woven in 
two or more colors in a manner to produce an irregu- 
lar distribution of same, such, for instance, as "pepper 
and salt." 

MerveilleiLx — A member of the satin family show- 
ing a light, lustrous twill. From mervaille, marvel. 

Messaline — A finish. May be imparted to any 
weave, rendering it exquisitely soft and supple. Origi- 
nally a fine, soft imperial satin of peculiar texture 
made in Lyons only, with organzine filling. From 
Messalina, third wife of Emperor Claudius, the most 
infamous woman in Roman history. 

Mikado Taffetaline — Trade name for a peculiar 
weave of light taffetas. 

Miroir, Miroite—Wxxxox or looking-glass effects. 

Miroir dii Nord — Same as foregoing, with sug- 
gestions of the North — a glacial effect. 

Moire — A watered effect produced by use of en- 
graved rollers and high pressure on corded mate- 
rial. 

[14] 



Moire Antique or Moire Antique — A fabric 
watered in design to imitate antique effects. 

Moire apois — A watered effect with small satin 
dots sprinkled over the surface. 

Moire Bengal — Trade name for a line of goods 
not differing particularly from many other watered 
stuffs. 

Moire Bengal Solide — Same as above. A trade 
name. 

Moire Diament — Same as above. 

Moire Francaise — A moire effect in stripes, pro- 
duced by use of engraved rollers. 

Moire Impel ial — Showing an indefinite watered 
effect covering the entire surface. 

Moire Metallique — Presenting a watered, clouded 
and frosted appearance. A metallic effect. 

Moire Nacre — Mother-of-pearl effect, showing the 
delicate pinkish flush and delicate tints seen in the 
interior of sea shells. 

Moire Oeean — Watered in a design of wavy, un- 
dulating stripes. 

Moire Poplin — A wool-filled corded fabric with 
watered effect. 

Moire Renaissance — A fabric watered in Renais- 
sance design. 

Moire Scintillant — A scintillating, or lustrous, 
watered fabric. In satin, a moire material in which 
the tram threads are woven to produce a peculiarly 
bright effect. 

[15] 



Moire Supreme — A rich satin weave, watered. 

Moire Tyrolien — A trade name of no special 
significance. 

Moire Velours — A moir6 fabric in velvety effect 
imparted in the calendering. See Velours. 

Moneybak — Registered trade name for a superior 
and dependable grade of taffetas. 

Monotone — One tone or color. 

Mojisseline de Soie—An extremely light-weight 
silk fabric. Anglice, silk muslin. 

Nacre- — French for pearly. A delicate pearl-shell 
effect. Name of Oriental origin, from nakir — 
hollowed ; a pearly substance which lines the inner 
side of many shells, most especially mother-of-pearl. 

Natte — Tressed or basket weave. A name given 
to a fabric constructed in loose check design in one 
or more colors, in a manner to give the cloth a braided 
appearance. 

Nid d'Adeii/e— Beehive, effect. 

Noiiveau — French for new, novel. 

Ombir Raye'—An effect formed by alternating 
ombre stripes with stripes of the foundation color. 

Ondine — A thick cord Bengaline, with every third 
cord crinkled. 

Ondiile- — From the French 07idule, undulate, 
Anglice, a wavy effect. 

Organdy — A thin, light, transparent muslin. May 
be of silk or cotton. 

Organsine — The silk fibre doubled and twisted, 
as "thrown" into yarn for warp threads. 
[i6] 



Ottoman — A fabric with wider, coarser rib tban 
faille, but belonging to the faille family. May be all 
silk, all wool, or a mixture of both, or a mixture of 
silk and cotton. 

Ombre— K shaded color effect, produced in the 
warp by warping in different tones, thus shading from 
light to dark. Anywhere from twelve to thirty tones 
may be warped in to obtain the desired effect. 

Ombre Moire Renaissance — A watered fabric, 
showing three tones of color in broad stripes, shaded, 
combining ombre and moire effects, with Renaissant 
design suggestion. 

Oyama Taffetaline — Registered trade name for a 
recent production by a New York up-State manufac- 
turer. 

Pailette — Spangle. 

Pailette de Soie — A silk fabric spangled with jet, 
gelatine or otherwise ; a spangled silk. 

Panache — Plumed ; variegated. 

Panne — A new satin material de luxe of superior 
quality. 

Papillon Tajfetas — Showing a design of different 
sized spots, as miniature palmettos, or other, or with 
shot grounds in designs of exquisite chine flowers. 
From papillon, French for butterfly. 

Parisienne — A mixed silk and wool fabric. 

Parsifal — Registered trade name for a fabric of 
the Peau family. A novel weave of exquisite softness, 
resembling Peau de Crepe. 

[17] 



Pastel — Name applied to a series of soft, flat, gray 
tones of colors as seen in crayon work. 

Peau — French for skin, hide, pelt. 

Pean de Crepe — Copyrighted trade name for an 
exquisitely soft, crepy material, kid-like to the touch, 
and of superior wearing and draping qualities. 

Peau de Cygne — Skin of swan. One of the 
numerous varieties of the Peau family. Of a soft tex- 
ture and finish, and a "hand" suggestive of the feel 
of the plumage of a swan — French, cygne. 

Peau de Sole — ^An eight-shaft satin with one point 
added, on the right or left, to original satin spots, im- 
parting to the fabric a somewhat grainy appearance. 
Literally, skin of silk. 

Pekins — Fabrics in which the stripes run in the 
direction of the warp. 

Persian — A thin, silk fabric, formerly much used 
for linings. 

Persian Effects — Also called Oriental and cash- 
mere. Showing the peculiar designs and color tones 
common to cashmere shawls and other Indian and 
Thibetan textile productions. 

Petits Pois — Tiny dots or specks. French for 
small peas. 

Picot — French for splinter. Applied to an edge, 
as seen in certain ribbons, looped out to form a finish 
on one or both sides— picot edge. 

Plisse — French for pleated. A pleated effect 
that may be applied to almost any material, including 
[t8] 



velvets. May be done by machinery, or, as in case of 
ribbons, by use of draw strings. From French plissei^, 
to plait, to crimple, to fold, etc. 

Plisse Oinbre — A new armure weave in plisse 
effect and ombre shading. 

P^z«/////— Dotted. 

Pompadour — From Madam Pompadour, mistress 
of Louis XV, who created an epoch in fashion during 
a portion of the past century. Pompadour effects as 
seen in silks and ribbons are largely floral in character, 
and are expressed in rich, soft colorings, somewhat of 
the pastel order. Sometimes applied to a peculiar 
crimson or pink shade. 

Pompadour Gros de Tour — A high-class gros- 
grain, with fine ribbed surface and in Pompadour effect. 

Pongee — A plain silk woven in the gum, usually of 
" singles," which may be used in that form or boiled off, 
and may be piece-dyed or printed. Name of East 
Indian origin, and originally applied to a fabric of un- 
dyed silk from India or China. 

Poplin — From the French popeline — lustre. A 
fabric of many varieties, usually of silk and worsted. 
Irish poplin is made of silk warp and worsted weft. 

Popelinette — An extremely light-weight poplin 
weave, between a grenadine and taffetas. 

Poult de Sole— A peculiarly strong and durable silk. 

Punjab Silks — Domestic imitations of Indian fab- 
rics. Seen in checks, fancies, shot and changeable 
effects, or with figures imparted by box loom or jac- 
quard work. 

[19] 



Pimjapore — A new rough weave. A trade name. 

Quadrille — Applied usually to small checks in 
squares. The shepherd checks may be classed gen- 
erally as among the quadrilles. 

Queen Silk — A very soft fabric of the chiffon 
order, both yarn and piece-dyed, in widths from twenty- 
one to thirty-six inches. 

Racsagada — Trade name for one of the new rough- 
surfaced, loose- woven silks. 

Radia — A forty-four-inch silk, Lyons made ; soft 
and sheer, in plain weaves, with high lustre. Is seen 
in all colors, both plain and imprime. 

Radium — Trade name for a new lining silk. 

Rajah — Trade name for a recent production. A 
cloth of very firm texture, wide, rough and compact, 
piece-dyed in all colors. The rough material is intro- 
duced in the filling. 

Raye — French for striped. 

i^^jz/r^— French for stripe. 

Rhadsimer — A sort of twill. 

Rhadzimer SuraJi — A surah with a modified rib 
or twill across the surface. 

Royale — A modification of Gros de Tours ; the 
rib line, which in the latter is extended straight across 
the cloth, being broken off at intervals, after a given 
number of warp threads. 

Satin — A silk cloth of close texture and over-shot 
warp, with rich, glossy surface. Thus : " Cloths of 
gold and satins rich of hue." — Chaucer. 

[20] 



Satin de Chine — An extremely soft and drapy 
satin with crepe-like finish. 

Satin de laine — Wool satin. 

Satin Grec — A twelve-harness satin in which a 
taffetas point is added at each place of interlacing, with 
effect of making the cloth much firmer. 

Satin Serge — A satin twill. 

Satin Soleil — A fabric of satin-like surface with a 
cross-line appearance and a pronounced sheen. 

Scintillant — French for scintillating, sparkling. 
A changeable effect. 

Seed Effects — Are formed by tiny dots which give 
the appearance as if small seeds had been strewn over 
the surface of the tissue. 

Serge — French for twill. 

Servisilk — Copyrighted trade name for a superior 
foundation silk for soft, clinging fabrics. 

Shantung — A rough-surfaced silk originally woven 
from the wild silk of China, with all knots, lumps and 
imperfections retained ; now largely produced by do- 
mestic manufacturers. 

Sicilienne — A very light-weight fabric akin to 
mousseline de soie ; also a corded silk and wool fab- 
ric like Bengaline. 

Silk Etamine — A novelty weave in twenty-six- 
inch width, of soft, clinging variety, adopted for use 
as suiting material. Trade name. 

Soie Batiste — Silk batiste, one of the most dia- 
phanous of Summer silk fabrics. May be severely 
plain or with self-colored dots or other tiny figures. 
[21] 



Soleil — A name attached to shiny materials, such 
as are largely used in the millinery trade, and satin 
soleil for dresswear. 

SoiLple — A dull effect in silk dyeing. 

Summa Silk — Trade name given to a selected 
habutai silk of close, smooth weave and high lustre, 
claimed to be spot and waterproof. 

Sitrah Ecossais Quadrille — A surah in design and 
coloring of Scotch squares, or shepherd checks. 

Szvivel Effects — Produced by use of a diminutive 
shuttle in figure weaving, the same carrying threads 
of various shades with the object of obtaining special 
effects, as in the shading of figures, flowers, foHage, etc. 

Syra Gasa — Registered trade name for a new 
rough silk, woven with open mesh, and designed for 
use as lining. 

Taffetas — A silk fabric of plain weave, with warp 
threads much finer and more numerous than the hard 
spun filling threads. This makes the surface of the 
fabric ribbed, with warp alone showing. The name 
taffetas is from the Persian taftan, to spin. 

Taffetas Metalliqiie—K taffetas finished in metallic 
effect. 

Taffetas Uni — Plain taffetas. 

Taffetas Weave — Same as plain weave or uni. 

Tartaii — From the French tartane\ Spanish, tiri- 
tana — a sort of thin silk. Also, a checkered or cross- 
" pattern " or plaid in colors such as are recognized as 
distinctive with the various Scottish clans. 

[22] LtrfC. 



Tashiko — Trade name for a new perspiration- 
proof Japanese silk. 

Tite de Negre — Niggerhead. 

Thrown Silk — Material that has been doubled 
and spun into yarns of various sizes — organzine or 
tram — in preparation for the loom. The raw silk of 
commerce being a continuous fibre, it is "thrown" 
into yarns, whereas short staples, such as silk waste, 
cotton, wool or flax, are spun to achieve a like result. 

Tram — Filling, weft. 

Travers — Stripes running in the direction of the 
filling, similar to those in bayaderes. 

Tiissah — A species of rough silk obtained from 
wild worms, not " in captivity," and that feed on oak 
and other leaves of the forest. It is sometimes called 
the "Wild Silk of India," is darker in color than ordi- 
nary raw silk, contains more gum, and is more difficult 
to utilize. 

Uni — Plain weave. 

Velours — ^French for velvet. From the Latin 
vellosus — hairy. A pile fabric somewhat akin to plush, 
that is produced in numberless forms, both plain and 
in fancy effects. 

Velo2irs Albigeois — A fancy striped velours fabric 
in two or more tones, the stripes running seven or 
eight to the inch. 

Velours- A ntiqiie-Ecossais — An antique-plaited 
effect velours. 

Velours EcossaU—K plaid velours. 
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Velours ^^;-<a:j-/^Similar to miroir velvet. 

Velours Grosgrain — A grosgrain weave with a 
rich, soft, velvet-hke finish. 

Veloiu's Ottoman — Resembling faille Fran^aise. 
Having a broader rib effect than gros de Tours, and 
with heavier binder warp. 

Velours Persien — Trade name for a velours in 
Persian effect. 

Velours Russe — A fabric of glace foundation with 
silk cords and stripes of contrasting colors. 

Velours Soleil — A velours with bright sheen im- 
parted in the finish. 

Velvet — A fabric showing a short, soft, thick pile 
or nap of erect threads and plain back. May have silk 
face and cotton back, or the back also may be of silk. 

Fc'/Z^i-— Veilings. The sheerest and thinnest of 
the gauze fabrics. 

Warp — The longitudinal threads in a woven 
fabric. 

Warp Effects — Patterns which depend mainly 
upon the treatment of the warp. 

Warp Prints — Fabrics in which designs have been 
printed on the stretched warp before the weaving. 

Waterctte — Trade name for water, spot and per- 
spiration-proof black taffetas. 

Weft — Same as filling. The cross threads in a 
woven fabric. 

YiLri-Hana — A lining silk recently introduced, 
A trade name, 

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